Diagnose electrical issues,
safely and step by step.

A receptacle is dead — nothing works when plugged in.

A circuit breaker trips repeatedly when loads are used.

Lights flicker, dim, or brighten unexpectedly.

A switch, outlet, or wall plate feels warm or hot to the touch.

Audible buzzing or humming from the breaker panel.

A GFCI outlet won't stay reset.

Split system runs but the house stays warm — covers 2–5 ton condensers and air handlers.

Condenser fan and compressor won't run — breaker, disconnect, capacitor, or contactor.

Indoor unit is silent or humming with no air from the vents.

Ice on the indoor coil, suction line, or the unit — weak cooling then nothing.

Water around the air handler, ceiling stains, or a window unit dripping inside.

The condenser or window unit trips its breaker — startup surge, loose lugs, or compressor wear.

Nothing happens — covers 110V and 240V window and through-wall units.

Fan blows but the air never gets cold — dirty coils, mode, or compressor.

Control panel lights up and buttons respond — but no fan, no compressor, nothing actuates.

Nothing works — no clock, no burners, no oven. Covers freestanding ranges and wall ovens.

One stovetop burner is dead while the others work — element, receptacle, or infinite switch.

Stovetop is fine but the oven stays cold — element, thermal fuse, door latch, or control board.

Every tap runs cold — electric element/thermostat sequence and gas pilot basics.

Drum tumbles but clothes stay wet and cold — breaker leg, vent, thermal fuse, or element.

Press start and nothing — door switch, thermal fuse, belt, or motor.

No lights, no sounds, no response — breaker, under-sink outlet, junction box, or latch.

Water comes in, then it just sits — float switch, jammed pump, or door latch.

Cycle quits partway, leaves standing water, or dishes come out dirty — drain, heat, or spray.

Dead panel or lights up but won't begin the cycle — outlet, door lock, or controls.

Tub full of water at the end of the cycle — pump, hose, lid switch, or load balance.

Water where it shouldn't be — hoses, door boot, suds, or a backed-up drain standpipe.

No lights, no hum, nothing — outlet, GFCI, or an internal control fault.

Light works, fans hum or compressor runs — but food warms and freezer softens.

Water pooled inside the fresh-food section or on the floor near the fridge.

Cold water everywhere the unit feeds — gas ignition, breakers, scale, or flow activation.

Fires fine, then goes cold — minimum flow dropout, sizing, or scale.

Every fixture is dry or trickling — main valve, meter, pressure, or the utility.

One fixture drains slow or not at all — P-trap, branch line, or venting.

Runs constantly or refills on its own every few minutes — flapper or fill valve.

Water swirls without going down, or it clears but clogs every week.

Active water where it shouldn't be — shutoff first, then isolate the source.

Loud knocks when valves close, or moaning during fills — hammer, loose pipes, or pressure.

Flushometer (handle or sensor) valves — running on, no flush, or dead sensor.

Sewer odor, or water rising on the floor — dry traps, grease, or a main-line blockage.

Water stands over a storm grate, catch basin, or yard drain after rain.

Sewage lift station alarm sounding, pump not starting, or wet well overfilling.

Weak flow at every fixture — main line, PRV, or supply problem.

Impairment, leak, damage, or an overdue inspection on a fire suppression system.

Sewage backing up into toilets, tubs, or floor drains.